:root{--paper: #f4f0e8;--ink: #20201d;--muted: #777269;--rule: #d5cfc4;--accent: #a14f35;--content: 760px;--wide: 1040px}*{box-sizing:border-box}html{background:var(--paper);color:var(--ink);font-family:Inter,ui-sans-serif,system-ui,-apple-system,BlinkMacSystemFont,Segoe UI,sans-serif}body{margin:0;line-height:1.6}a{color:inherit;text-decoration:none}a:hover{color:var(--accent)}img{max-width:100%;display:block}.shell{width:min(calc(100% - 40px),var(--wide));margin:0 auto}.reading{width:min(100%,var(--content));margin:0 auto}header.site-header{padding:28px 0 16px}.site-header .row{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;gap:24px;align-items:baseline}.brand{font-weight:700;letter-spacing:.04em}nav{display:flex;gap:18px;font-size:.92rem;color:var(--muted)}.lang-switch{display:flex;gap:8px;padding-left:18px;border-left:1px solid var(--rule);font-size:.76rem;letter-spacing:.08em}.lang-switch [aria-current]{color:var(--accent)}.translation-note{margin:18px 0 0;font-size:.85rem;color:var(--muted)}.hero{padding:72px 0 56px}.hero h1{font-size:clamp(2rem,4vw,4.3rem);line-height:1.05;margin:0 0 20px;letter-spacing:-.035em;max-width:13ch}.hero p{max-width:620px;color:var(--muted);font-size:1.08rem}.rule{border-top:1px solid var(--rule)}.eyebrow{font-size:.76rem;letter-spacing:.14em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--muted)}.entry-list{padding:12px 0 60px}.entry{display:grid;grid-template-columns:120px 1fr;gap:32px;padding:28px 0;border-top:1px solid var(--rule)}.entry-date{font-size:.77rem;color:var(--muted);text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.08em}.entry h2{margin:3px 0 7px;font-size:clamp(1.45rem,3vw,2.25rem);letter-spacing:-.025em;line-height:1.15}.entry p{margin:0;color:var(--muted);max-width:580px}.entry-place{font-size:.77rem;letter-spacing:.1em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--accent)}.home-section{padding:18px 0 58px}.section-heading{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;gap:24px;align-items:end;padding-bottom:14px;border-bottom:1px solid var(--rule)}.section-heading h2{margin:4px 0 0;font-size:clamp(1.55rem,3vw,2.35rem);line-height:1.1;letter-spacing:-.03em}.section-link{color:var(--muted);font-size:.85rem;white-space:nowrap}.compact-list{padding-bottom:0}.compact-list .entry:first-child{border-top:0}.entry h3{margin:3px 0 7px;font-size:clamp(1.35rem,2.5vw,1.95rem);letter-spacing:-.025em;line-height:1.15}.trips-home{padding-top:4px}.trip-list{border-bottom:1px solid var(--rule)}.trip-summary{display:grid;grid-template-columns:150px minmax(0,1fr) auto;gap:28px;align-items:baseline;padding:26px 0;border-top:1px solid var(--rule)}.trip-list .trip-summary:first-child{border-top:0}.trip-date,.trip-count{font-size:.77rem;color:var(--muted);text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.07em}.trip-count{white-space:nowrap}.trip-main h2,.trip-main h3{margin:0 0 5px;font-size:clamp(1.45rem,3vw,2.15rem);line-height:1.1;letter-spacing:-.03em}.trip-main p{margin:0;color:var(--muted)}.trip-summary.has-banner{grid-template-columns:170px 150px minmax(0,1fr) auto;align-items:center}.trip-thumb{display:block;aspect-ratio:16 / 9;overflow:hidden;background:var(--rule)}.trip-thumb img{width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover;transition:transform .25s ease}.trip-thumb:hover img{transform:scale(1.015)}.trip-banner{width:min(100vw - 40px,var(--wide));margin:42px 0 30px 50%;transform:translate(-50%)}.trip-banner img{width:100%;aspect-ratio:2.8 / 1;object-fit:cover}.archive-page{padding:70px 0 100px}.archive-title{font-size:clamp(2.5rem,7vw,5rem);margin:8px 0 16px;line-height:.98;letter-spacing:-.045em}.archive-intro{color:var(--muted);max-width:600px;margin:0 0 58px}.trip-year,.entry-year{margin:0 0 58px}.year-label{font-size:1.65rem;font-weight:650;padding-bottom:10px;border-bottom:1px solid var(--rule)}.article{padding:72px 0 100px}.article-title{font-size:clamp(2.7rem,8vw,6.4rem);line-height:.95;letter-spacing:-.055em;margin:10px 0 16px}.article-subtitle{font-size:clamp(1.2rem,2.3vw,1.8rem);max-width:650px;color:var(--muted);margin-bottom:28px}.article-meta{font-size:.8rem;text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.09em;color:var(--muted);margin-bottom:64px}.prose{font-family:ui-serif,Georgia,Cambria,Times New Roman,serif;font-size:1.12rem}.prose h2{font-family:Inter,ui-sans-serif,system-ui,sans-serif;font-size:1.5rem;margin-top:58px;letter-spacing:-.02em}.prose p{margin:0 0 1.4em}.prose figure{margin:46px 0}.prose figure img{width:100%;height:auto}.prose figcaption{margin-top:10px;font-family:Inter,ui-sans-serif,system-ui,sans-serif;font-size:.82rem;line-height:1.5;color:var(--muted)}.prose figure.wide{width:min(100vw - 40px,var(--wide));margin-left:50%;transform:translate(-50%)}.prose figure.portrait{width:min(100%,440px)}.prose blockquote{margin:42px 0;padding-left:20px;border-left:2px solid var(--accent);color:var(--muted)}.field-note{margin:42px 0;padding:20px 0;border-top:1px solid var(--rule);border-bottom:1px solid var(--rule);font-family:Inter,ui-sans-serif,system-ui,sans-serif}.field-note strong{display:block;font-size:.75rem;letter-spacing:.12em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--accent);margin-bottom:6px}.trip{padding:62px 0 100px}.route{margin:36px 0;display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:10px;align-items:center;color:var(--muted)}.trip-map{margin:8px 0 48px}.trip-map>svg{display:block;width:100%;height:auto}.trip-map .sea{fill:var(--paper)}.trip-map .land{fill:#e7e0d3;stroke:var(--paper);stroke-width:1.2;stroke-linejoin:round}.trip-map .country-label{font-size:11px;letter-spacing:.18em;text-transform:uppercase;fill:#a29b8f}.trip-map .sea-label{font-family:ui-serif,Georgia,Cambria,serif;font-style:italic;font-size:13px;letter-spacing:.06em;fill:#a29b8f}.trip-map .route{fill:none;stroke:var(--accent);stroke-width:1.6;stroke-linejoin:round;stroke-linecap:round;opacity:.8}.trip-map .marker circle{stroke:var(--paper);stroke-width:1.5}.trip-map .marker.stay circle,.trip-map .legend-stay{fill:var(--accent)}.trip-map .marker.day circle,.trip-map .legend-day{fill:var(--paper);stroke:var(--accent);stroke-width:1.6}.trip-map .marker text{font-size:12.5px;fill:var(--ink);paint-order:stroke;stroke:var(--paper);stroke-width:3.5px;stroke-linejoin:round}.trip-map .marker.day text{fill:var(--muted)}.trip-map .lake{fill:var(--paper)}.trip-map .marker.via circle{fill:var(--muted);stroke-width:1}.trip-map .marker.via text{font-size:11px;fill:var(--muted)}.trip-map .legend-item svg{flex:none}.trip-map figcaption{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:6px 18px;align-items:center;margin-top:10px;font-size:.78rem;color:var(--muted)}.trip-map .legend-item{display:inline-flex;align-items:center;gap:6px}.trip-map .map-credit{margin-left:auto}.itinerary{margin:0 0 24px}.itinerary ol{list-style:none;margin:0;padding-left:0}.itinerary .entry{padding:18px 0}.itinerary .entry h3{font-size:clamp(1.15rem,2vw,1.45rem)}.itinerary-travel{font-style:italic}.route span:not(:last-child):after{content:"→";margin-left:10px;color:var(--accent)}footer{border-top:1px solid var(--rule);padding:28px 0 60px;color:var(--muted);font-size:.88rem}@media(max-width:700px){.entry,.trip-summary,.trip-summary.has-banner{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:7px}.trip-thumb{margin-bottom:10px}.trip-banner{width:calc(100vw - 40px);margin-top:30px}.trip-banner img{aspect-ratio:16 / 9}.trip-count{padding-top:2px}.section-heading{align-items:start}.hero{padding-top:48px}.site-header .row{align-items:flex-start}nav{flex-wrap:wrap;justify-content:flex-end}}